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Dart Frog FAQs
Do Poison Dart Frogs produce toxins in captivity?
- This is the most frequently asked question we hear at shows. No, the frogs do not get the specific ingrediants in the insects that they are fed in captivity to produce skin toxins. Apparently in the wild, they eat ants and possibly some beetles that contain alkaloids from consuming certain plants, and this is where it is believed the acquire the neccessary ingrediants.
This is a numbering system used to distinguish the sex ratio in a group of animals. In the example above it would identify 1 male, 1 female, and 3 unsexed animals (probably juveniles.) Just remember:
male.female.unsexed
What does F1, F2, etc. . . mean?
F1 means that the animal in question is only one generation removed from wild caught animals, i.e. it’s parents are wild caught. Each successive generation is numbered higher. Also, c/b means captive bred, and w/c means wild caught.
What kind of Dart Frogs can be kept together in community tanks?
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We prefer to keep our Dart Frogs seperate by genus and morphs. However, questions about mixing or "community tanks" are also one of the more frequently asked questions. It depends on the genus of the Dart Frogs in question. We would recommend understanding which of the sexes are the ones that fight in the species you are considering, and only keep the same sex of the opposite sex. For example auratus, tinctorius, and azureus are all closely related, and the females of each genus will fight, sometimes to the point of the loosing females being killed or dying from stress. If you wanted to keep a group of these animals together you should really only keep males together. Also, this would eliminate any possibility of hybrids being produced - which is highly frowned upon in the community. In general you are far better off avoiding community tanks and sticking to one type of Dart Frog per tank or enclosure.
How often should I dust the feeder insects with supplements?
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This is our opinion, but we feel very strongly about it; Dust with Mineral and Vitamin supplements, and also with Calcium supplements, every single feeding. We use Rep-Cal Herptivite Multi-VitaminTM and Rep-CalTM Phosphorous-Free Calcium with Vit. D3. Fruit flys will begin cleaning themselves off almost immediatly upon being dumped into an enclosure, and so the longer it take for a frog to find it and eat it, potentially the less supplements it will recieve. Also, if you dust everytime then the frogs will consider it normal and not spit the dusted insects out. Calcium deficiency can lead to major problems and even death in amphibians.
How concerned should I be about inbreeding my animals?
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There are many different opinions out there on this question. You should ask as many experienced breeders as you can and then make your own opinion. When we began breeding dart frogs it was widely believed in the American community that inbreeding should be avoided at all costs. People sought out supposidly unrelated bloodlines whenever possible. We heard that this was not a major concern in the European community, and perhaps when it was learned why, attitudes began to change on this issue. Many Dart Frogs can appear identical to each other and be called the same thing (in fact they are the same morphs) and yet they may have come from geographically different populations when collected. By crossing those bloodlines we are then producing a bloodline that does not exist in the native populations. So many breeders now will not breed a group of frogs that they know where imported or collected in the past from a particular location with any others that were not from the same importation or collection. Inbreeding does produce defectives, but surprisingly not as many as you would think in amphibians. It could be theorized that many of the really dangerous traits have been eliminated from most wild populations - they didn't survive long enough to pass the traits on. It is also our understanding that many populations of dart frogs exist in isolated locations and therefore the wild populations are potentially inbreeding quite frequently. We no longer worry about inbreeding - as we have been told is the case with European breeders (if a breeder from across the pond knows differently, we would welcome feedback). We also no longer go to extrodinary lengths to help weak froglets or tadpoles to survive - as we have learned that we are not doing anyone a favor by raising it up to breed and potentially pass along weak genes that can lead to problems in the captive bred populations. It really is up to you, just don't produce hybrids and try to keep some kind of notes about where you got your frogs (from whom) and what if any other groups you bred it against. Some people would like to know. We try to obtain most of our breeding stocks from breeders who we know obtained theirs when the particular frogs were imported from either Europe or the wild. This allows us to know we have bloodlines that are the most like the wild populations as possible.
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